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闽南人曾经的餐桌之光,被我们给了差评……

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匿名  发表于 2020-3-25 17:51 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式

闽南人曾经的餐桌之光,被我们给了差评……





  原创 傲客城市菜单

  它们是从什么时候开始消失在餐桌上的?

  问90后的闽南同事:平常吃罐头嘛?“不吃不吃,小时候倒是经常配饭吃。”

  闽南之外,年龄再小些的同事,罐头已属于完全陌生的领域了。

  

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  想买些小时候爱吃的罐头来做评测。

  看看过了这么多年,它和记忆中的味道是否仍然一样。

  “有十几年没看到这个了耶……”

  这样的想法时不时冒出来,最后哐啷哐啷收获了一满桌花花绿绿、喜气洋洋的。

  有点过年的意思。

  

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  拍完照,在公司群里一喊:“罐头随意认领噢。”

  被开始摇头说不吃不吃的那些人,瓜分了个干净。

  小时候,罐头是餐时饭后最热门的美食

  九几年上小学,正值最馋嘴的年纪。

  那时候,罐头在闽南人的餐桌上已经不算稀罕物了。

  

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  △ 有你熟悉的罐头吗?

  与现在古龙的一枝独秀不同,从前选择要更丰富得多。

  闽南本地就有星光、华星、Q3等品牌。从广东和台湾进口的甘竹牌、台凤牌罐头也常见。

  再早一些,水仙花、海堤牌罐头也极受欢迎。

  

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  沿海的城市从不愁渔鲜,做罐头花样也多。

  油浸、红烧或豆豉茄汁,干吃齁咸得叫人直咧嘴,要送饭佐粥才知是一绝。

  

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  记忆深处仍有这样画面:

  家里偶尔来了朋友,父母便将几罐红烧排骨、同安封肉或香菇猪脚加热摆盘。在当时,是很上得了台面的好料。

  

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  不那么讲究的时候,单将罐头中的卤汁浇在刚出锅的饭上,噙着精华的凝冻胶质在热米饭的熏蒸下化开,便勾得人魂儿都飘起来。

  

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  更别提古龙的拌面拌饭宝物香菇肉酱,那唠起来就没完了。

  ——它在闽南人心中的至尊地位远远超过了老干妈。

  

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  但若是回到90年代,你问小朋友:最好吃的罐头是什么?

  绝不可能是以上种种。

  在零食并不充足的年代,能吃到甜津津的罐头,才是孩子们日常最奢侈的幸福一刻。

  

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  谁不想天天被长辈带去赴喜宴呢。一轮硬菜先塞得肚皮滚圆,然后就可以眼巴巴地等着压轴的糖水罐头。

  

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  什锦椰果或水果用小勺捞着吃干净,再将糖水一饮而尽——

  整个人就会像落进棉花里似的,被巨大的甜蜜冲击撞得晕晕乎乎。

  ……怎么会那样甜呀。

  

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  得益于瓜果之乡的丰饶,闽南囝仔吃过的水果罐头种类也比别处更多些。

  

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  荔枝、龙眼、枇杷、杨梅……鲜果季短的水果,被装入玻璃或铁罐里,就可以违逆季节时令的定律,成为一年四季随时开盖享用的甜味记忆。

  

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  “龙凤果”。知道是什么吗?

  答案藏在文章某处,欢迎来找。

  那些曾惹人垂涎的罐头,真的好吃吗?

  说了那么多童年味觉记忆中的罐头,现在再来吃,它还会是当年我们喜欢的那个味道吗?

  这次选了近20款罐头来评测,不妨一起往下看看。

  

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  妈妈做饭也总有疲懒的时候,偶尔简单地煮锅清粥,小菜罐头就成了餐桌上最大的主角!即使时光飞逝,这些配饭配粥的小菜,在餐桌上仍有一席之地。

  1. | 古龙香菇肉酱 |

  

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  先开一罐古龙香菇肉酱,表面凝固着淅淅沥沥的红油,看着略显油腻。运气好的话,还能吃到颗粒状的肉末,和粥一起送进嘴里,口腔里皆是熟悉的发酵酝酿出的香气。

  2. | 古龙香菜心 |

  

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  佐粥小菜里香菜心的地位也不可动摇。从汤汁里夹起一块,咸香鲜甜的菜心唤醒了食欲,从嘴里传出密集的咯吱咯吱脆响,口中回甜。

  3. | 古龙香焖花生 |

  | 华星香焖茄汁黄豆 |

  

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  古龙的香焖花生,一直是奶奶辈的喜爱。花生仁咸甜软烂,适合老人家进食,在粥上浇一勺喷香的汤汁,便是古早的味道。

  

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  拿起另一款华星的茄汁黄豆罐头。黄豆绵密,没有豆腥味,茄汁让黄豆浸入香甜的滋味,筷子总是会不停地伸向它。

  4. | 古龙午餐肉 |

  

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  午餐肉切片稍稍煎制后,散出的除了肉香,还有难掩的罐头铁味,当下已失了兴趣。不仅吃起来没有嚼劲,还腻人。唉,果然还是不能太活在童年滤镜下。

  Tips:古龙另一款优质午餐肉更好吃,但是价格更贵些。

  

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  和佐粥小菜相比,好吃的肉罐头更像是一道好菜在餐桌上发光。不仅下饭,还十分“杀馋”!

  1. | 甘竹牌豆豉鲮鱼罐头 |

  

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  说到鱼罐头,我的最爱是甘竹的豆豉鲮鱼。鱼肉煸得干酥,丝丝脉脉酱香浓郁,角落的豆豉也不能放过,搭着这口极致的咸鲜风味我能多扒两碗饭。

  2. | 老船长豆豉鳗鱼罐头 |

  

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  鳗鱼肉浸满在香油中,没有大骨头,每一口都能感受到它裸露的酥香,毫不保留地释放着鲜味。口味偏甜,也不会太咸,当做小零食来吃也合适!

  3. | 星光牌酱香沙丁鱼罐头 |

  

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  沙丁鱼段堆满小碟子,随即而来的是它浓烈的酱香气,鱼肉还保持着蒜瓣型的肉质感,但光从味道上来说,它莫得自己的灵魂,风味还不够独特。

  4. | 古龙鲜炸带鱼罐头 |

  

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  古龙的带鱼罐头,并没有带给我们太大的惊喜。鱼腥味明显,以至于它原本该有的鲜,都被掩盖得毫无踪迹。

  5. | 古龙红烧猪肉罐头 |

  

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  这用肥腴堆砌的猪肉罐头,角落还凝着一层白色油脂,似乎是在叫嚣“吃我会变胖哦!”。

  五层肉间颤颤巍巍的膏腴部分,加热后也太过肥腻,招架不住。瘦肉部分香是挺香的,但还是太柴了些。

  

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  小时候嗜甜,吃过的糖水罐头也不在少数。特意找来了这些久违的糖水罐头,一起去觅一觅童年里的甜密幻觉。

  1. | 融荣水果罐头 |

  

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  融荣的牌子擅长把福建当地的水果拿来做罐头,我们这次开了罐最具特色的枇杷罐头。枇杷还保留了本身的橘黄色,糖水渍过后,甜味翻倍,还能吃到鲜果肉的纤维感。

  2. | 台凤牌水果罐头 |

  

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  台凤的水果罐头是唯一配上小叉子的,体验感立即加了高分。红毛丹里塞了一小块凤梨,咬下不仅有糖水溢出,还有双重的水果香气,让人惊喜极了!

  *现在知道谁是龙凤果了吧!

  3. | 金君牌糖水菠萝圆片罐头 |

  

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  菠萝已经在浸渍下褪成了淡淡的黄色,也把菠萝的酸度也一并褪去了,剩下一汪齁人的糖精水。或许是罐装久了,铁锈的味道也混杂在其中。

  4. | Q3糖水龙眼罐头 |

  

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  古早的包装,一下就把记忆拉回到童年那个夏天。挑出一颗龙眼,已经细心地去了核,一口吃下,甜得声音都要发嗲了!看来,年纪大了,还是消化不了那样的甜度了。

  5. | 喜多多罐头 |

  

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  喜多多的罐头,我都是当甜汤喝的。多少年过去了,还是喜庆的包装,味道也是一如既往。椰果、银耳都脆爽爽的,和汤水一并喝下,适中的甜度,吃到最后也还不觉腻。

  为什么我们再也不爱吃罐头了?

  着手做这个主题时,有听到很多议论。

  

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  “听说罐头里有很多添加剂、防腐剂之类。”

  对于健康卫生的疑虑,成了养生年代里人们最大的担忧。

  

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  稍微了解下会知道,事实并非如此。

  正规罐头装的产品,无需防腐剂也能保持新鲜。而灭菌后的罐头在真空状态下,可以完全隔离外界细菌。

  

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  但科技发展和便利物流,让“尝鲜期”的界限变得模糊。

  喜欢的蔬果几乎四季都吃,又带着自然、水气淋漓的清甜。

  餐桌上拌饭酱和小菜偶有,肉制罐头却被更新鲜易得的食物替代。

  曾让我们一闻到就流口水的各类罐头,变得可有可无。

  水果罐头?

  小时候吃完糖水罐头还要倒举着,久久地等待最后一滴甜落入口中。

  长大后的味蕾,已然受不住糖精的甜腻滋味了。

  

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  除了《重庆森林》里的金城武,如今还有谁仍爱吃水果罐头呢。

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