约旦 以色列 7 - 戈兰高地,那瑟勒,海法

作者:BANGZI  于 2015-7-15 02:10 发表于 最热闹的华人社交网络--贝壳村

通用分类:旅游归来|已有23评论

关键词:戈兰高地, 以色列

五月六日
早六点多就起来收拾东西,七点就把她俩轰起来出发了。俺们住在加利利地区的太拜里亚斯市内,从酒店到本塔山头(mt bental)距离是60公里。市内哪一段路有些拥堵,出了城以后基本上车就不多了。一路上看见很多有联合国标志的卡车和suv,有一段路上俺们是被夹在三辆联合国车之间,路上其他车辆很少。事后想想应该是太早了。尽管俺们事先已经打听了该地方的情况但是看着这个场景还是不免心里敲小鼓。快到本塔山时俺们前面有辆大巴后面还有几辆小车俺以为都是去旅游的,结果到了上山头的那个拐弯别人都走了,害得俺以为俺走错了路。
 
进了停车场,那里只有一辆联合国的卡车,附近看不见一个人影,搞得俺们神经有些紧张。俺英勇的跟婆娘说你坐到驾驶座上,待俺前去侦察以下,如果有啥不对劲赶紧跑。周围的确是一个人也没有,山头有些破旧军事工事坑道其他就是风景了。联合国的观察哨有两个兵在里面,说话时类似英国的口音,好像聊性不高,打了个招呼俺们就自己溜达了。此地点离大马士革60km,巴格达800km,安曼132km。能见度不错,大马士革基本能看见,长镜头一拉就更近了。就在俺们逗留的一小时里,叙利亚方向有三次巨响的爆炸,白色烟柱腾然而起,一把就把俺们揪回到现实中。战争与和平离得就是这么近!
 
戈兰高地现在在联合国还算是有争议地区,但是只要以色列保持强势一天就不会还给叙利亚 - 放弃了就失去了一个易守难攻的天然屏障。有些资料片里提到当年叙利亚占着戈兰高地时没事儿就往以色列这边开枪放炮的可嚣张了。67年六日战争之后以色列扬眉吐气了,国土好像一举扩大了四倍!这个地区是很多军迷必到之处,还有专门的军事旅游。
 
礼品店,咖啡屋。咖啡屋的名字好像叫 kofi annan,谐音前联合国秘书长的名字。

 

还有个雕塑家的工作室,其作品就摆放在路边,欢迎接洽购买。

 

废弃的军事工事,坑道

 

随着一声巨响就看见白烟柱腾空而起

 

大马士革

 

联合国的观察哨

 

又爆炸了,那两个兵忙着用高倍望远镜察看啥情况

 
 
戈兰高地惊魂了一下,看完了默默的祝福叙利亚人民早日得到和平。下一站,那瑟勒,耶稣他娘怀上他的地方!耶稣成长的地方!耶稣跟他养爹学木匠手艺的地方!
出了约旦河西岸地区俺车上的gps才似噩梦初醒,慢慢开始认道儿了。从本塔山到那瑟勒距离倒是不远,但是途中有一段修路修的利害,耽误了不少时间。等到那瑟勒时已经是中午了。进了城里gps又开始犯晕乎,旅游点居然木有报喜堂。俺婆娘自告奋勇说她看了那瑟勒介绍了,说是山顶上那个金顶就是,于是俺就发挥了俺的方向感优势,在这个山地城市里上蹿下跳一马杀到了金顶底下,妈呀,这是个清真寺!那个婆娘当场无地志容!没辙,俺只好掏出手机把俺昨天定的位置重新找一下,因为没敢开数据漫游,所以只能是边看边开。很快拨乱反正到了报喜堂附近才发现停车真是个事儿。兜了两圈发现只能交钱停车,还好大约8美元,心里想这会儿你要三十俺也得给啊!总体来说感觉这边民风还是挺纯朴的。
 
报喜堂是在圣母玛丽亚家的老宅子旧址上建的。顾名思义,纪念圣母有喜了。院子里的墙上是各国信徒贡献的圣母图。中国的是有台湾代表的。

 

一楼的地下遗址

 

二楼的教堂,这是个非洲来的朝圣团在搞什么仪式

 

圣爹,或叫圣养父,约瑟夫的铜像在远处望着报喜堂。

 

俺觉着圣爹的表情有一丝忧郁,这咋着就怀上了聂?这咋着又是上帝的种了聂?天使加布里尔你来打个招呼就行咧?知道您是上边派来的,可是,可是?信教的朋友别生气,俺就是随口胡咧咧。旁边就是约瑟夫教堂,据说是在他的木匠铺子遗址上建的。

 

圣父给圣母交带戒指

 

圣家全家福

 
 
海法
报喜堂看完了,俺们就随便在停车场附近找了个“吃完了吗”,这边的泡椒圈味道一级棒。店家不断跟俺提醒说那个巨辣要小心!俺还是吃了几大勺。他是不知道俺是神马人物!俺也由此评定那瑟勒的“吃完了吗”是俺们去过的这几个地方里最好吃的!可惜那是家巴勒斯坦人的店,不卖酒。
吃完饭已经快三点了。再赶着去阿口akko怕是不太明智。所以俺们就直奔海法了。出城时gps又有不俗表现,给俺指了一条越开越窄的路,直至最后到一个很窄很短前面还停了几辆车的死胡同里。俺居然毫发无损的把车又给开出来了,又多了一项给俺婆姨显摆的资本!
 
没费啥劲就到了海法,可是海法市内单行道挺多,把俺们农村人给饶糊涂了,搞了半天才进到酒店。稍事休息就推着孩纸去看巴哈伊花园。此前已经从旅店了解到花园每周三关门,可今天奏是周三哪!紧赶慢赶安排了个闭门羹。好在那个花园是依山而建,到山脚下还能看个全景。旅店给了个股沟上打印的地图,俺的脑子可能当时有些短路,居然给走错了,要是在别的地方也就算了,海法的路可以用陡峭来形容的啊!最后俺们到的是花园的半腰,为了抄近道儿俺扛着小推车连下了几百级台阶啊!想起来都是泪(累)啊!
 
但是,下到花园的出口以后,苦尽甜来!有个小餐馆对着花园,可以坐下慢慢欣赏。再来一个惊喜就是这家有宝莱纳黄啤,虽然不是俺的最爱,在六天滴酒不沾后还是很滋润的,况且宝莱纳黄啤本来就不错。其间还偿了一种以色列石榴黑啤,8%酒精度。俺一般喜欢高度数啤酒,不过这个石榴啤的口味不咋地。俺婆姨也有所斩获,这家馆子是俄罗斯人开的,有些东欧中欧那边的菜,比如匈牙利古拉什,她也借机复习一下布达佩斯的味道。俺们一直在那儿坐到天黑才走,巴哈伊花园的灯也亮了,感觉生活是多么的美好!
 
之后俺们从港口那边溜达回了酒店,俺又买了份儿“吃完了吗”当夜宵。比那瑟勒的差远了。
 

 

 
 

05/06/15 tiberias - mt bental - nazareth - haifa

after a good night of sleep we rested up pretty decently. mostly because we didn't do much walking yesterday. around 7am we started our drive to mt bental. following highway 90 and then 91 we got there in a jiffy! well, not exactly, a little more than an hour. on the way up there we saw several un vehicles. not many cars on the road to that direction.

we stopped at a gas station to fill up. the attendant didn't speak much english. he first took our credit card. then came back and asked for some cash. we were very confused. then another guy came by somewhat explained to us in broken english that they only could charge 49nis to the card and to fill up the tank they needed 200nis in cash. sounded very strange, but everything turned out to be just fine. 49nis on the card and he took 200nis in cash - we got a full tank of gas!

by the time we were on our asent to mt bental there were a big bus in front of and two cars behind. we thought everybody was going to mt bental. but as it turned out we were the only car making the turn to mt bental. it was a little creepy because there was nobody else except us by the time we arrived at the parking lot.

i got off the car first to check out the surroundings and told my wife to move to the driver's seat and told her to get ready to go if anything not looking right. but i was extremely over worried. the peak of mt bental is now a recreational area complete with a cafe and a sculpture art shop. there are deserted miliary barracks, too. finally, there is a un observation post manned by two un soildiers. they weren't in a talkative mood.

from that specific point, damascus is 60km away straight line, bagdad 800km, amman 132km. it was a good high viewpoint to survey up the surroundings. beautiful, too! the real surprise came a moment later. while we were up there for only an hour, there were three explosions going off in the syrian directions, big white smoke could be seen clearly, which brought us into reality of what was going on there! one famous phrase just came to my mind sounding loudly: can we just all get along?

after we got our "thrill" of visiting mt bental we headed to nazareth. the gps was functioning normal now. the drive was pretty smooth but before we turned to nazareth direction we ran into a lot of road construction, traffic was pretty slow and heavy.

later on the gps proved it wasn't to be trusted to find tourist attractions for it won't even show me where the church of announciation is. i resorted to my cellphone to get us there. street parking was impossble. we ended up spending 30nis and went into a parking lot that was three minute walk from the church. we did the admiration of the church and the next door church of joseph, had a great time. had lunch at a small place for a delicious swarma. strangely enough, it's always chicken or turkey, rarely beef or lamb. the picked green pepper rings are out of this world!

by now it was 3pm. we figured it probably wasn't a good idea to try to cover akko. so we set our destination directly to haifa. the gps showed it talent to me again. it lead me into a small alley to get out of nazareth to a point i was at a dead end with extremely narrow alleyways to try a turnaround! in the end i was very happy to get an opportunity to brag to my wife about my driving skills.

uneventful drive to haifa. however, trying to get to the front door of our hotel, eden, proved to be a challenge. all these one-way streets made my head spinning! but we finally made it. after we settled in we walked out towards the baha'i garden. it closes every wednesday, it happened that we made our plan to be in haifa on a wednesday. you never can be too careful with the details. the hotel owner told us that at the bottom of the garden we still could get a pretty view of it. the walk to that place took a big chunck of our energy because the streets were very steep. but we made it.

at the un square at the bottom of the garden we found a small restaruant that's got a very good view of the garden upwards. the owners came from russia. my wife had a goulash dish to refresh here memory of buda pest. it was decent. i forgot what i ate but i did get some good beer finally, paulaner yellow. not my top choice, but after being dry for almost a week it was the best beer at the moment. i also tried a israel pomegranate ale, very strong at 8% abv. good ale, but flavor isn't my desire.

by the time we were all done the garden all lit up, very pretty! we took a leisure walk via the port back to the hotel. another successful and beautiful day finished!


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发表评论 评论 (23 个评论)

1 回复 fanlaifuqu 2015-7-15 02:12
无人不晓的地方!
2 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-15 02:16
fanlaifuqu: 无人不晓的地方!
是的!记得小时候广播里经常提到巴以冲突,巴解阵线,阿拉法特,以色列总理贝京,叙利亚,戈兰高地。。。 都离得这么近了,一定要来探个究竟!
2 回复 sousuo 2015-7-15 02:18
有一个遗憾
2 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-15 02:22
sousuo: 有一个遗憾
你们跟团,看得东西比俺们多很多。但是看“旁门左道”的东西就不如俺们自由了。
2 回复 秋收冬藏 2015-7-15 03:43
一会儿一个炸弹,敢情是提着命出去旅游啊。佩服
1 回复 sousuo 2015-7-15 04:12
确实,我还真没注意还有个约瑟的像。
2 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-15 04:30
秋收冬藏: 一会儿一个炸弹,敢情是提着命出去旅游啊。佩服
其实有些虚张声势!那个山头现在已经是以色列的自然保护区,是个休闲的地方。去之前已经在tripadvisor上问了很多次,本地的专家一致说安全木问题。戈兰高地整个地区在以色列安全部队的控制下。当然,叙利亚那边是有可能往这边射炮弹的。

等俺们离开的时候看见了四个人,一个背着冲锋枪穿便衣,不知他是干啥的。还一个是咖啡店的,腰上别着个手枪。另两个是从以色列中部来玩的,跟他们聊了几句。大家都觉得这个场景很自然。
1 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-15 04:32
sousuo: 确实,我还真没注意还有个约瑟的像。
跟团容易被“牵着鼻子走” ,可能导游没觉得圣约瑟夫教堂有什么看头。
2 回复 sousuo 2015-7-15 05:05
在一个院里?
0 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-15 05:14
sousuo: 在一个院里?
面对报喜堂门口左手边,圣母雕像旁边有个楼梯上去就是。如果从报喜堂二楼出来就直接面对约瑟夫的雕像。约瑟夫教堂就在雕像的右边。
2 回复 sousuo 2015-7-15 05:38
二楼去过,可能忙着找厕所,把他老人家忽略了。
1 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-15 05:49
sousuo: 二楼去过,可能忙着找厕所,把他老人家忽略了。
离厕所不远,印象里有三四十米的样子,要拐个弯。报喜堂二楼出口出来就正对雕像。
2 回复 sousuo 2015-7-15 05:51
仔细看过照片,知道应该在那里了。

海法,我们去的是古堡和市场,没去这个漂亮花园。
1 回复 sousuo 2015-7-15 05:52
BANGZI: 离厕所不远,隔着一排松墙,印象里有三四十米的样子。
被厕所迷住了双眼,再看远一点就是了,但,没看。
1 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-15 05:58
sousuo: 仔细看过照片,知道应该在那里了。

海法,我们去的是古堡和市场,没去这个漂亮花园。
记得你的游记里写的是阿口akko的古堡和市场。阿口和海法离的很近。难不成你们也是周三去的?
2 回复 看得开 2015-7-15 09:43
谢谢分享,最后几张真壮观!
2 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-15 11:48
看得开: 谢谢分享,最后几张真壮观!
那个园子是不小!也许是因祸得福,要是开门的话又得走个半死。
2 回复 黄笑吾 2015-7-16 08:36
能够活着回来,就是奇迹。咱命薄,没有胆量去这么个鬼地方
2 回复 BANGZI 2015-7-16 08:40
黄笑吾: 能够活着回来,就是奇迹。咱命薄,没有胆量去这么个鬼地方
这是给上面有类似感慨的回复:

其实有些虚张声势!那个山头现在已经是以色列的自然保护区,是个休闲的地方。去之前已经在tripadvisor上问了很多次,本地的专家一致说安全木问题。戈兰高地整个地区在以色列安全部队的控制下。当然,叙利亚那边是有可能往这边射炮弹的。

等俺们离开的时候看见了四个人,一个背着冲锋枪穿便衣,不知他是干啥的。还一个是咖啡店的,腰上别着个手枪。另两个是从以色列中部来玩的,跟他们聊了几句。大家都觉得这个场景很自然。   
2 回复 xoyuanfen 2015-7-21 22:39
看来我们请个司机导游还是不错, 不过那导游也开错了几次。
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