2013/4 阿根廷 D2. 布宜诺斯艾利斯：雷科莱塔公墓

4/21/2013 （日）
昨晚睡得不错。俺们的房间没有对着街所以很安静。差不多十点多俺们就出门了。第一件事是要再去换点黑市美元。昨天一顿饭把俺们的比索库存减去一大半儿！
 

为了庆祝布市建立400周年，1936年由建筑师阿尔贝托·普雷比施（Alberto Prebisch）设计，修建了这座方尖碑（Obelisco）。由于起初人们反对这个工程，1939年几乎被全部拆毁。2014年已成为布市不可替代的标志性建筑。碑高67.5米。七·九大街（Av. 9 de Julio）（1810年7月9日阿根廷宣布独立）由北向南横穿城市，宽约140米，据称是世界上最宽的马路。 　　

天气不错，不冷不热地。 方尖碑和七·九大街 

上图楼上的人物便是贝隆夫人。看样子她是这个国家的传奇人物。

　　天气好心情也好，俺们溜达这往弗罗里达街走去。到了方尖碑广场要过马路时俺忽然意识到出酒店门口时看见的两个小年轻还跟在俺们后面。俺跟婆姨说盯着他们点儿。俺背着背包和相机婆姨推着小孩车两岁的孩纸坐在车上，俺寻思着两个小玩闹儿要是闹事儿还真是不好对付。

　　到了方尖碑下这俩个混混更是跟俺形影不离。这是俺已经基本闹明白了他们的意图 - 脚着俺的相机值钱。所以俺特意给他俩拍了照示意他俩俺已经注意他们了。不过这一招对他们完全没有任何威慑力。

　　等过了马路，俺跟婆姨说俺们进麦当劳去，量他俩不敢再店里抢劫。等俺把婴儿车搬上台阶时这俩已经迫不及待的要动手了。俺婆姨说她回头看他俩时那个黑小子已经伸手要抓俺的相机了。

　　两个小毛贼

 大兴土木

　　在麦当劳喝了杯可乐橙汁神马的耗了十分钟，再出来那俩小混混已不见踪影。可是没过多久又看见他们了。不过这次是他们被警察逮着了坐在马路牙子上 - 偷一个背包客的东西。俺当仁不让的去跟警察叔叔说这俩玩闹刚才还想抢俺的相机（此时相机已经在俺的背包里躺了半天了）。完了俺们就去找地方换钱去了。昨天换钱的那一家今天铁将军把门 - 星期天商店差不多都关门。只有餐馆还开门。俺婆姨眼尖说一有个杂货店开门貌似还是中国人。


　　科隆歌剧院

哥伦布剧院位于布宜诺斯艾利斯市中心，紧邻七九大街，与城市纪念碑遥遥相对，是一座专门上演歌剧、芭蕾舞剧和交响乐的高水平的剧院，同时也是世界上最著名的剧院之一。阿根廷人声称，在世界现有歌剧院中，哥伦布剧院拉美第一，世界第三，仅次于意大利米兰剧院和法国巴黎剧院。
哥伦布剧院始建于1890年，1908年竣工，工期长达十八年。其间先后更换了三位设计师。1908年5月25日，哥伦布剧院正式启用，首演剧目为著名歌剧《阿伊达》。
剧院建筑沉稳但不失雍容典雅， 融意大利文艺复兴时期的从容大度与德国厚重以及法国优雅的建筑风格于一体。内部装修广泛使用从意大利和西班牙进口的大理石和马赛克，更显得富丽堂皇。剧院内壁的浮雕、窗户玻璃彩绘等美伦美奂，大厅内陈设的雕塑、胸像神态惟妙惟肖，木器、瓷瓶等艺术珍品古色古香，特别是金厅四壁的24K镀金浮雕更加令人叹为观止。
主剧场拥有2500个坐席和1000个立席。观众席分为七层：一层池座(29.25米×32.65米)，设632个宽敞舒适的座位；二层至五层均为包厢；六层和七层分别被称为“楼厅”和“天堂”，均为立席。“天堂”距地面的高度为28米。
剧场天顶悬挂着由600只灯泡组成的巨大吊灯。吊灯周围是阿根廷著名艺术家劳尔·索尔迪创作的巨幅环型壁画。舞台的面积(35.25米×34.50米)大于池座，可以旋转，便于迅速更换场景。音响设施设计巧妙，即使舞台上不用扩音器，演员的声音也能清晰均匀地传播到全场各个角落。

进了店一问，还真是祖国来的，福建人。小伙子和他媳妇儿俩一起打理这个杂货店。还有个两岁的孩纸。俺问他们星期天换钱的店不开门咋办？他说你怎么换俺说一比八，你要多少，换五百美元，你等着我回家去拿钱。。。看样子这里是不大安全，店里500百美元的钱都没有。

　　等待期间那个警察跑来找俺说是被偷的背包客不愿意去警局做笔录问俺想不想去，那意思是如果没人做笔录他们也没辙只能把那俩小混混放了。大爷俺是来玩儿的没兴趣参观警察局。多好的制度啊，多好的人权啊！难怪混混们敢光天化日之下没有顾忌地抢劫。

　　没一会儿福建小伙子回来了，俺们做了交易就撤了。放了一部分现金汇酒店俺们就出来找食饵了。惊心动魄的一个上午！

　　烤肉店，貌似都叫神马parillas。看着样银哈喇子之流。。。

食肉动物的天堂 

看俺在拍照，男服务员摆出了女性叉腰动作，很有幽默感

　牛肉部位图

餐厅的门脸儿，这种烤肉餐厅叫parrilla，发音是“帕里亚”，餐厅的名称是el gaucho parilla  - 牛仔烤肉

俺们点了个两人份儿的烧烤，有香肠，牛排，鸡排，猪排 - 反正是撑得够呛。牛排有点费牙嚼得腮帮子疼。总共花了260比索（包括一瓶375ml的葡萄酒），购便宜的。

这孩纸吃饭真捣蛋 - 啥都不吃！人家过了一岁生日就自觉自愿的当了素食主义者。吃饭基本是白米饭，连菜都不怎么吃。好在她喝奶的功夫一流，营养还算跟得上。

酒足饭饱，俺们就腿儿这上布宜诺斯著名的墓地去瞧瞧。原来以为墓地还能咋地，到跟前一看他还真是能咋地！原来这是个死人炫富的地方。这些个墓地真是精耕细作各有秋千。正好赶上周日附近还有庙会摆摊的很热闹。

一路走过去

这是另一个古老的剧院

犹太教堂？

路过一个公园 

 雷科莱塔公墓入口

墓地地有很多名人。其中之一便是贝隆夫人。所以找她的墓地也是到这儿参观的项目之一。俺们就随随便便的大概看了一下，当然贝隆夫人的墓也没瞄见什么样儿！这些墓修的真是挺费心思的。

百度百科
布宜诺斯艾利斯国家公墓 
布宜诺斯艾利斯国家公墓，又称贵族墓园，迄今为止，这座占地10英亩的陵墓中安息着大约7000个阿根廷社会历代精英。该墓园是布宜诺斯艾利斯最古老的公墓，公墓原是教堂后花园，1822年成为墓地。阿根廷很多名门望族，都会在这里购买墓室。如今已有23位阿根廷正副总统安息此处。

简介
布宜诺斯艾利斯国家公墓，长长的蔓藤、萋萋的芳草、深深的墓园，刻满了岁月沧桑的雕塑，处处弥漫着欧式的浪漫和忧伤。国家公墓又称贵族墓园，迄今为止，这座占地10英亩的陵墓中安息着大约7000个阿根廷社会历代精英。该墓园是布宜诺斯艾利斯最古老的公墓，公墓原是教堂后花园，1822年成为墓地。它仅限于安葬达官显贵。而在阿根廷，贵族身份确定是十分严格的，需要其家族拥有十世以上的荣耀。历经十世的荣耀保持，非“暴发户”可以偶然“入流”。因此国家公墓自诞生起就奠定了其“贵族血统”。而欧式宫殿的陵墓建筑风格定位则更强化了墓主的显赫身份。阿根廷很多名门望族，都会在这里购买墓室。如今已有23位阿根廷正副总统安息此处。

国家公墓，凭借着高贵的定位，成了身份、地位和荣誉的象征，也成了阿根廷民众最向往的“永久家园”。国家公墓所在的街区也是布宜诺斯艾利斯市最繁华的贵族区，墓园前面就是贵族咖啡厅、品牌商铺。而这座世界知名墓园，不显山不露水，宁静地伫立在那一条条时尚的街道之间，与周边售价昂贵的商铺、装饰典雅的咖啡屋，自然地融合在一起。每到周末，公墓外的法兰西广场会聚集上百个各色手工艺小摊主，组成了布宜诺斯艾利斯最著名的特色集市[1]  。

特点
举目望去， 国家公墓到处都是雕塑，其中不乏欧洲名家的构思奇特、寓意无穷的雕塑精品。雕塑有勇武的猛士、柔媚的女神。除西方传说中的守护神雕塑外，部分墓园还有生活化的一些雕塑，如墓室前后的侍女、小童和猫狗等动物，殿檐上还有吉祥天使的雕塑等。雕塑的面容祥和温婉，有模仿生时景象的痕迹。有的陵墓还有画卷般的叙事雕塑，追叙几代人的奋斗史。精工细作，意义悠长。他们使用雕塑来表现家族的思想特征和行为特色，记录家族的兴旺历程。[2]  迄今为止，这一座占地10英亩的陵墓中安息着大约7000个阿根廷社会历代精英。布宜诺斯艾利斯国家公墓是布宜诺斯艾利斯最古老的公墓，公墓原是教堂后花园，在1822年成为墓地。布宜诺斯艾利斯国家公墓仅限于安葬达官显贵。而在阿根廷，贵族身份的确定是十分严格的，需要其家族拥有十世以上的荣耀。历经十世的荣耀保持，非暴发户就可以偶然入流。所以国家公墓自诞生起就奠定了其“贵族血统”。而欧式宫殿的陵墓建筑风格定位则更加强化了墓主的显赫身份。阿根廷很多名门望族，都会在布宜诺斯艾利斯国家公墓购买墓室。时下已有23位阿根廷正副总统安息此处。

 这儿就是死人斗富的架势

 走累了歇会儿

 头一回看见这么豪华的墓地

能上这儿住的应该是非富即贵了

叹为观止，堪称一绝！

看完了墓地到外面的小店吃点喝点儿，天已擦黑打了个车回酒店。据说在布一诺斯打车要打radio taxi，要不然容易被宰。俺们遵守这一规则没出过状况。车门上写着呢，很容易辨认。

外国人对墓地没啥忌讳，大家都跟逛公园一样

俺们的服务生，貌似受了很大的委屈 

宝宝眯了一觉醒来在逗俺们玩儿呢！

今天就这么结束了，来布一诺斯两天了还没找到感觉。不过今天比昨天感觉要好些 ，当然，除了那个抢劫未遂！

 明天飞乌施维亚ushuaia。早早地在网上订了出租车。早睡早起。

day two

thanks for all the feedbacks and good suggestions. will take note. since i am a bit short on time here because we were pretty much out and about all the time, let's get on with the main story.

we had a very exciting start yesterday. as we walked out of the hotel around 12:00 noon after a very good night of sleep we didn't notice anything unusual. i was in my t-shirt and shorts because of the hot weather with my camera strapped across my body. a couple of blocks away we were at the oblisk. by this time i noticed that the two kids i saw at our hotel door were still behind us. i told my wife that i thought these two kids were after my camera. i even took pictures of them to let them know that i knew what they were up to. but they were not shy. i guess they just thought my camera was too good to pass. by the time we walked the across the street they were still tagging us. we decided to go into a mcd to cool them off. right at the time i was lifting the stroller up the steps my wife turned back and saw one of the two kids were reaching out for my camera. i guess he still was a bit shy to do while the owner was staring at him so he backed off. and we went into the mcd. two passers-by signed us to keep our eyes on the camera.

we sat in the mcd for about 5 minutes and had some juice. we went out again to lavalle street to get more cash for we were to fly to ushuaia the next day. we found another store that would do 8 to 1 - didn't really push for more becaue it was plenty good already. while we were waiting for the store owner to get his pesos we saw the same two kids picked up by two cops - they got caught taking some stuff from a young man's backpack. we also to the cops that the same two kids were trying to rob us earlier. while we were doing the money exchange in the store one the cop showed up and asked us if we would go to the police station with him. we said were too busy to do that. i don't know what finally happened, but it didn't look like they took the two kids away - guess someone has to file a report against them.

well, this was a bit disappointing. our first impression of buenos aires wasn't as great as we had hoped because comparing to these other cities we've been to this city has yet to offer anything for us to get excited. now combined with the robbery attempt and construction sites everywhere near centro it didn't look so pretty.

we went back to hotel to put extra pesos in the safe before we went out again for lunch. by now it was about 2pm. we had lunch at el gaucho on lavalle street. we ordered mixed meats for two with steaks, ribs, chicken, sausuges. it was more than we could eat, but i did manage to finish all the meats except chicken because i don't like chicken so much. my wife wasn't very helpful on this endaver. the flavor of meats and sausuges is pretty good. beef texture is very different from that in the usa due to fact cattles here are grass fed. however, i have to say i had a lot of wear and tear on my teeth and jaw after the meal. price was more than fare. with a 375ml bottle of wine the tab came out to be 260 pesos after a 30% discount.

we walked to recoleta cemetery after lunch. recoleta had a very different feel. with a stree fair going on and bands playing on the streets it looked like crowds around the cemetary were having a decent sunday afternoon. didn't seem there were packs of hyenas waiting for their turns to attach the buffalos. speaking of these hyenas, when we went back to lavalle street to have lunch we saw at three spots people reporting to the police that they were stolen and at another spot a cop was questioning a youth - not looking pretty!

recoleta ceremetary was very interesting - a place for dead people to show off. these tombs were taking a lot of work to built, some are very artifully decorated. totally worth the time. we didn't hire a guide and we couldn't figure out where mrs peron's tomb was... oh well. afterwards, we had some drinks at a near by cafe and took a cab back to the hotel.