2013/4 阿根廷 D8-9. 布宜诺斯艾利斯 博卡区 巴勒莫区 （完）

4/27/2013
　　计划着俺们今晚要做夜里的飞机，所谓红眼航班， 经停里约热内卢去伊瓜苏。这样飞人有些受罪，但是三个人能省五百多美元。所以俺们咬咬牙就订了。早晨退了房把行李寄存在酒店，定好了去机场的出租车。酒店前台的人说提前三个小时走就足够了。

　　网上接受本地驴友的建议去san telmo区去看看。结果聂，那个地方不太有吸引力，看着像是个跳蚤市场，地方又小又拥挤，坐酒吧里看风景都不中。所以没待一会儿俺们就打车又去博卡区- 昨天俺们待的地方。

这个地方虽然乱糟糟的，但是很有活力很有情趣。但是本地人好像不太推荐这里，大概是觉着有损本地形象？尽管这里很夸张，针对旅游者的目的很明确，这里却是别的地方很少能见着的一景！俺认为非常有特色非常值得一去。

俺们到那儿之后先把那几条街转了一圈，用色彩斑斓，光怪陆离来形容不为过分。

马拉多纳，贝隆夫人，另外一个不知是谁，在楼上招手

这个街区就叫卡米尼偷，跟出租车司机吼一嗓子卡米尼偷他就知道你要去哪儿了。

街上的各色雕像壁图也很有创意

才发现这个女的咋是这么个表情，蛮搞笑的

esperando la barca 没搞明白啥意思

纪念消防队员的雕像

转悠够了俺们又回到了昨天那家酒吧。

　　今天的乐队是个拉手风琴的老爷子。做派很有白兰度在《教父》里的份儿。

这是choripan，阿根廷式的热狗，香肠用的是西班牙式的chroizo。据说比西班牙的香肠要辣一些。不过俺吃着不辣。吃了一半了才想起来照。味道很好。好像是50比索一个。

今天探戈换人了，这一对在出场前各自玩手机

今天还是很多人

这家餐馆名叫la barrica，红底白字写着vino葡萄酒，tango探戈，arte艺术

这就开场了。老爷子的手风琴很是慷慨激昂，这对探戈跳得也很卖力。当然开场之前又少不了拉人照相的套路。俺们做的位置就在台子旁边，俺跟他们说等会找了零钱了一定给，也没有腆着脸色迷迷的去照相，得到了俺家婆姨的口头表扬。

相机的连拍终于派上了用场

这孩子又耍上了

休息期间讨论工作

“教父”的派头很足。旁边拉贝斯的也是个“狠角”。

探戈休息了，改那个戴帽子的女的唱歌了。这些人真的挺有两下子。昨天唱歌的老爷子是那个穿浅色衬衫的。

百忙之中还抓拍了个美女

俺家孩纸听高兴了跑到台上去扭了一会儿，把“教父”和他的喽罗们逗乐了。

还跑去和艺术家们交流体验

边上小摊子卖的情趣物件儿

忽然下起了毛毛雨，大家都搬到室内来了。这个室内装饰的也很有意境，有时光倒流的感觉。

这是俺家孩纸跟个拟似俄罗斯来的孩纸在联欢，很搞笑

老大心事重重 

探戈又接着跳起来。尽管空间不大两个人还是跳得绘声绘色。布宜诺斯艾利斯的探戈表演是个旅游项目，从高大上五星级的到市井街头的都有。但是俺个人觉得博卡区的这种街头探戈是原汁原味，因为探戈本身就是从市井街头走出来的，并一度被认为是下流的舞蹈。去高大上的探戈表演就好比是去五星级酒店吃烤羊肉串儿，也许用料更好味道也好，但是不是那个意思。

一下午载歌载舞挺欢乐地。。。记得后来还点了一杯放三种酒的咖啡，结果没啥酒味儿，不知是否上当了。 

俺家孩纸模仿“黑土”--- 好！

难道乐极就要生悲吗？俺们差不多离起飞时间还有三个半钟头回到酒店，顺利地取了行李上了车，一路飞奔。上了高速公路就碰上堵车。司机已开始还不怎么着急，等过了一个小时俺们几乎没怎么动换才意识到大事不妙，赶紧打电话问路，结果吓了高速，一路穿石桥走小路，等赶到机场时已经是起飞时间了。那飞机自然是走了。 

航空公司的大婶跟俺说可以给俺们换成明天一早的航班，前提是要付三千二比索，那还只是估价，真要改可能更多。俺掰着手指头算了半天，不去吧损失二百美元，去吧要多掏四百多，而且手上没有那么多黑市比索，美元现金也不多了。算个球，不去了。等下次去巴西时在区伊瓜苏瀑布。坐上来的那辆车回了酒店。花了近70美元到机场逗乐一圈儿。今天兴高采烈的开始，郁闷的结束了。 

酒店其实有很大责任，大城市星期五晚上都堵车怎么能这么随便糊弄客人呢？可这又到哪儿说理去捏？貌似这次大堵车是因为车祸，点儿背！不过这也成就了俺们的第一次：这是俺们在外面跑跑颠颠十多年第一次没赶上飞机。认了！

2013/4/28 布宜诺斯艾利斯 巴勒莫区

4/28/2013

　　今天是俺们在布一诺斯的最后一天了。下午八点的飞机。吸取上次的教训俺们从出租车公司订了车，提前四个半小时走，车费只要180比索，比酒店便宜多了。

　　今天还有大半天怎么打发呢？到网上咨询了一下，本地的网友说巴勒莫区可以去看看。还有个远一点的区可以坐船去，俺们嫌太麻烦就放弃了。打了个“radio taxi”来到了巴勒莫区，时间太早，餐厅酒吧神马的都正在准备开门儿，周围还没什么人气。

这个小狗在阳台上观风景

这边大概是他们的富人区，网上本地人貌似都挺推崇。不过从旅游的角度上来说没啥看头，喝酒搓饭的地方而已。 

本地的网友貌似都比较推荐这个地方。但是对于俺来说这只是个不那么脏乱差的比较富裕阶层的生活区，完全没有什么旅游的价值。也许是阿根廷人为了展示他们觉得比较光鲜的地方反而不太推荐博卡区。

这都十一点多了，还在不紧不慢的，没有哪家像是准备好了的。餐馆也都在卖早餐。大概是西班牙意大利遗风。 

正好街心有个儿童游乐区，俺们就进去消磨了会儿时间。小孩纸也活动活动手脚。

大脚怪

　玩儿了一会儿就去找地方吃饭。从网上找了附近的一家餐厅，网评还不错。俺们吃了海鲜饭，火腿，和阿根廷“烤包子”- empanadas，加上一小瓶葡萄酒共消费375比索。身上没比索了给了他们50美元现金。烤肉看着很不错可是不敢吃了 - 太费牙！

类似西班牙的火腿，味道不错

烤肉看着真的很有食欲

火腿就是从这上面“凌迟”下来的，生的。

烤肉店里都有这样的牛肉图

吃完饭，看看还有一小时俺们就到酒吧去坐了会儿，看看过往的行人，顺便把多余的比索喝掉。然后打车回酒店拿行李跟着订好的出租车去了机场。一路顺畅，从布一诺斯，经纽约旧金山顺利地回到了家。还剩12比索作纪念。

　　吃午饭的餐馆

像不像老电影里的场景？

阿根廷这一段就结束了。除了伊瓜苏没去成这趟跑的还挺成功挺高兴。俺们去过的这几个地方俺觉着这几个点最好：

　　1。佩里托莫雷诺冰川 - 震撼，美景

　　2。布一诺斯 博卡区 - 探戈，音乐，餐厅，酒吧，愉悦的气氛
　　
       3。乌斯怀亚海峡游船和火地岛公园 - 风光旖旎，靠近南极 

　　4。布一诺斯墓地 - 独一无二，很特别，不一样的风景

day eight

had a emotion rollercoaster ride today. in the morning, we packed our stuff in a way that we could leave our small suitecase and one of the backpacks at the hotel while carrying the other backpack and a diaper bag for our red eye journey to iguazu via rio de jenairo. the packing went very well, by 12 noon, we were out on the streets.

based on the mostly negative reviews about the open top tour bus we dicided against taking it. instead we were going to do a walking tour of san telmo and la boca. along the 9th of july avenue we saw endless construction sites right in the middle of the street. i guess they are taking the slow tour season to get some work done. and i resulted to take pictures with my cell phone due to the fact that there weren't many interesting subjects.

we didn't see anything of our interests at san telmo due to lack of research on our part. just passing through. and we fell in love with la boca although it was a bit uneasy to walk through the areas that seemed rundown and shaddy. however, at no time we felt unsafe. calle museo caminito was all pleasant with colorful buildings, bars, and tango dancing everywhere. its touristy all right, but it sure has its own characters. sat at a bar drinking beer and people watching for a couple of hours and finally we had to head back to the hotel for a taxi ride to the airport.

while we were having lunch at the mcd near the welcome to la boca sign (sorry guys, wife insisted) i got an email from the auto dealer i ordered a new car from two months ago that my new car would be delivered on monday - two weeks ahead of schedule. that made us happy, too. however, our luck pretty much ended after our visit to la boca.

we were back to the hotel practically three hours before our departure time, took a taxi arranged by the hotel for 250 pesos (a bit on the high side). everybody said we wouldn't have a problem catching our 10pm flight. right after we got on the freeway we found ourselves stuck in wall to wall traffic. the traffic wasn't moving much. two hours passed we were still stuck in traffic, in the meantime we saw five ambulance vans trying to going through the crowds and several police motorbikes. our driver finally did some maneuver and got off the freeway and zigzaged through some back streets and finally got us at the terminal by 10:15 - the plane had already left!

aerolineas argentinas told us that they could reschedule us for a flight out tomorrow morning, but we would have to pay a minimum of 3200 pesos (the agent told us it could have been more if we went ahead with the rescheduling). the reality is: because our tickets are non-refundable, if we didn't go we would lose about 200 usd and if we did go we would have to pay at least 500 usd more. and we are running low on cash in usd and not able to take the advantage of the good exchange rate. we thought it was too much and decided to forget about iguazu. our driver waited for us while we were trying to figure out what to do, and we took the same car back to the hotel. it was 500 pesos well spent for a joy ride to and from eze!