埃及 13。12/16/15 卢克索 帝王谷 哈齐普苏特庙 哈布庙

2015/12/16 （二）上午中午 卢克索 帝王谷 哈齐普苏特庙 哈布庙
　　因为这几天都是早睡早起，俺们的时差还没有完全调整好。其实这样也好，每天早早的就出发，不用等到晚一些和为数不多的旅游团照面，拍照效果会好很多。六点半俺们就吃完了早饭，早七点司机就来接俺们了。今天上午的活动都在河对岸，俺们住在卢克索  市内，东岸。帝王谷，哈奇普苏特庙和哈布庙都在西岸。昨天看了卡纳克  庙，埃及  乃至世界最大的古庙，不知今天这两个庙会不会很让人失望。卢克索  附近的各个法老的庙数不胜数，要想都看那可是得多呆些日子。俺们属于走马观花族的，所以根据旅游介绍选几个重点地看看。

　　第一站是帝王谷，valley of the kings。等到新王国时期，法老们已经不玩儿金字塔了。因为金字塔目标太大，所有发现的金字塔都被盗墓人洗劫一空，木乃伊更是被掏空了卷在纱布里面的值钱小物件随便丢弃。这跟法老们想升天当神仙的想法颇有距离。新王国的首都也从开罗  附近的孟菲斯  迁到了底比斯thebes，也就是现在的卢克索  luxor。然后从公元前十六世纪至前十一世纪大约500年间，法老们就在尼罗河西岸的一个山谷里开始凿岩穴作为他们的墓。其间一直有个由各种工匠画匠组成的墓穴建筑施工队驻扎在山谷附近，他们居住地的遗址也被考古了。直到法老王朝破落前，帝王谷都专门有个机构负责安保和维护。即使这样盗墓的现象还是很严重的，人们猜测盗墓人如果不是建筑队的人，起码也是有建筑队的人指点。目前在帝王谷里找到的63个墓穴 - 有法老的，也有政要的 - 都不同程度的被盗了墓，包括人们津津乐道的土唐卡门墓！现在对游人开放的墓穴只是63个里面很少的一部分，很多墓在发掘之前就遭到了洪水的侵蚀，结构不稳定，出于安全原因无法对游人开放。每张门票100埃镑，允许看三个墓，想多看还得再买票。图唐卡门的墓是单卖票的，100埃镑。其实小图同学的墓不值得看，很小，里面又木有什么东西，徒有虚名，里面的好东西都被搬到开罗  的埃及  博物馆里了，只有小图同学的木乃伊还在里面。

　　扯了这么一大篇帝王谷只有一张秃山的照片，整个帝王谷墓里墓外禁止拍照。俺还和几个本地的导游为此事口角了一番。


旅店房间能看见尼罗河，尼罗河的早晨

 
帝王谷离卢克索  市内不远，过桥就是。 kfc外卖。麦当劳kfc卖的价格在此地应该算是高价食品了。

 
 孩纸们上学路上 

 
 这就到了西岸这边，林荫小道加上一点小雾气看着很仙境的赶脚！ 

 
 从西岸看尼罗河 

 
 　这就到了帝王谷了，唯一的一张相机照片。等俺再去搜搜婆娘的手机，她用手机偷拍了几张。俺拍的室外照片被人家逮到删除了。俺也懒得费劲去复原。据TA上同学们说的意思是帝王谷的拍照权卖个一家什么公司了，所有整个帝王谷，墓穴内，室外，一律禁止拍照。俺和领导抱怨这个规定真的很司徒彼得，结果让个本地导游听见了，他的民族自尊心受到了极大地侮辱，跑去和管理人员投诉了，人家一直追着俺们到了最后一个有上百级台阶的墓穴的门口，他们在下面喊，俺们装聋作哑，后来他们气喘吁吁地上来了，俺们好开森。。。呵呵。幸亏他们只查了俺的手机，里面只有几张室外的。婆娘的手机里真的有墓穴里面的照片，俺在那儿假装刺儿头吵吵嚷嚷的所以就忘了婆娘那个手机。这都是何必呢！
 

 
在帝王谷跟导游们吵完了架，挺滑稽的，结束了帝王谷的参观。有些墓穴规模还是相当大的，里面也是墙上顶上满是浮雕壁画，金碧辉煌的，很气派。可又有什么用呢？所有的法老墓包括他们的木乃伊都被洗劫一空。法老时代没落之前，帝王谷管委会其实还是挺负责任的，他们把一些重要人物的木乃伊全部集中到了一个很难发现的偏僻墓穴里，结果还是让想掏财宝卖给外国人的村民们发现了。法老的木乃伊们现今都在老干部活动中心 -埃及  博物馆 - 颐养天年！呵呵。。。



　　下一站，哈奇普苏特（哈氏）纪念庙。哈氏的纪念庙是供太阳神阿蒙-瑞的。建筑风格上独树一帜，跟其他法老的庙完全两样。此地也是1997年极端分子枪杀62个游客的地点。哈氏是个“女流之辈”，公元前1506（这年代貌似都是大约的，各处写的经常不一样）年开始掌勺当法老。按规矩女人是当不了法老的，可是事在人为，哈氏在她一手提拔的大内总管三纳穆特的辅佐下成就了大业，谣传他俩还有不正当男女关系。这可不是俺编的，别骂俺低俗。呵呵。。。

　　哈氏是图特摩斯一世（图一）的正室闺女，图一由他的儿子图二继位，图二是妃子所生，所以血统不正牌儿，咋办聂，他就娶了她的同父异母的妹妹哈氏为妻以壮“军威”。结果图二这小身体儿不咋地，四十啷当岁儿就撒手走咧！哈氏根儿正苗红受的是皇家教育，一看说这事儿俺玩儿的转，俺来！于是经过一通包装推广隆重登场，她的雕像啥的都是男装，还带着假山羊胡子-法老的招牌。哈氏的才能坊间是承认的，南征北战，扩大版图，抢邻国点儿地盘儿她都干过。建这个庙也是为了宣传她的丰功伟绩。可是呢，她这么一弄就“一不小心”得罪了一个人：图三！图三是图二和妃子所生，是哈氏的非亲生子。哈氏管着事儿这图三就木法当法老，他只是三军统帅，整天在外面东征西伐，到了哈氏归西图三正式当上法老时，埃及  的版图是有史第一！图三的报复手段是把哈氏的雕像，浮雕里哈氏像啥的能砸得都砸了！结果就是：这个庙名气大故事多，但是里面可看的东西并不多。

全景，坐落在山谷里。

 
 今天到处都是学生，这几个熊孩纸非得让俺给他们来一张。背景里俺的两个队员又被“围攻”。 

 
 哈氏的雕像一大排，这都是后来拼装恢复的，全给图三砸了 

 
 女学生 

维基百科：荷鲁斯（Horus，也作Heru-sa-Aset荷鲁—沙—阿赛特、Hrw、Hr以及Hor-Hekenu）是古代埃及神话  中法老  的守护神，是王权的象征。他的形象是一位隼  头人身的神祇。
像许多其他神祇一样，荷鲁斯的性质，以及关于他的故事和传说，一直在随着历史的发展而不断变化。可以把荷鲁斯看作是由许多其他与皇权，天空等有关的神祇组成的合并体。而这些神祇大多是太阳神  。
Heru-ur（也称作Harmerti哈默迪）是荷鲁斯最早的一个版本，他是一位隼  形的造物神。他的眼睛是太阳  和月亮  。当新月  出现时，他就成了一个瞎子，称作Mekhenty-er-irty（意思是“无目者”）；而当他的视力恢复时，他又被称作Khenty-irty（意思是“有目者”）。眼盲时的荷鲁斯是非常危险的，他有时会将朋友误认为敌人并发起攻击。他是盖布  与努特  的孙子，是莱托波里斯  （Letopolis）的守护神。
 
葫芦丝神，就是个神马鹰

 
 原雕像碎块加水泥拼接的结果，修复的还不错。双手交叉胸前是法老雕像的标准动作，木乃伊也是这样的。法老媳妇儿只能单手放胸前。 

 
入口，门上写了一大堆字。要是能看懂古埃及  的文字应该很有意思。

 这座庙三面环山，估计古埃及人也讲究风水 

 
这个女法老故事一大堆，有兴趣自学吧。俺们兜一圈就出来了。

 
 庙的底层回廊里的浮雕，还是彩色的，晒不着太阳的原因 

神奇的很 

 
这幅里的哈氏像就被凿的稀巴烂

 完了事儿了小宝要上厕所，哪儿给她找去，问一个工作人员，人家就热情地带着去了，当然小费得给，要不辜负了人家的热情。

 
旁边山上还有其他考古工地，不开放

 
哈氏庙参观完了俺们就直奔哈布庙。全名麦迪奈特-哈布庙，此庙是拉美西斯三世（拉三，第十八朝代，公元前1184-1153）的皇宫和纪念庙。位于麦迪纳特-哈布，因此得名，在卢克索  尼罗河西岸。哈布庙是新王国时期的一个重要建筑。除去其规模和建筑风格的重要性它的浮雕壁画还是了解当时埃及  人击败“海洋人”的重要资料。该庙宽210米，长300米，共有7000平方米的浮雕墙面，可谓没有闲着的墙面！公元一世纪至几世纪此地是个科普特人的城市，该庙也被用作科普特人的教堂，庙内的浮雕和雕像遭到了不同程度的毁坏。总体结构和浮雕保存的还算完整，但是有些雕像和石柱  被毁的很厉害。尽管这是俺们看得第三座庙，已经有些审美疲劳，这座庙还是有其特色，很值得一看的。


这样的门楼子据说不是埃及  风格的，应该是拉三儿征战叙利亚  是从哪儿的城堡风格得到的启发。

 
在这里，俺的两个队员受到了女同学们的围攻合影各种组合，一时脱不开身，穿蓝衣服的老师正试图驱散“暴徒”们。

 
 入口 

 
法老朝代晚期的黑石头雕像，这个也应该是太阳神啥的，头顶上顶个太阳

 
墙上是拉三和阿蒙神的浮雕。上半部分的浮雕人像已经被卡普特人凿掉了。后来看的哈索尔庙也是这样凿的。

 
门楼子的房顶雕着很多雄鹰展翅一样的图案，应该是葫芦丝（horus）- 天空神，战神，猎神。

 
又是拉三儿和阿蒙神。此庙里面的文字刻的非常深，据说是为了避免后来的法老接着在上面改刻别的字

 
 又遭遇女学生围攻，俺们哪个司机也解释不清楚今天是个啥日子，貌似学生都被组织出来参观了 

 
墙上刻着拉三儿骁勇善战，英勇杀敌。手上提溜着一大堆敌人。高帽子的是阿蒙神。这个女同学很有镜头感，表情很好。

 
第二道门楼子两边都是拉三儿英勇杀敌的巨幅宣传画

 边上的小庙

 
回望第一道门楼子，叙利亚  城堡风格。貌似古时候那一片总是杀来杀去的。

 
中间是拉三儿，右边是葫芦丝和阿蒙神，左边是澳西里斯神，貌似是先刻错位置了。就这质量也来蒙事儿！

 
第二道门楼子的天花顶，又是葫芦丝神雄鹰展翅

 
 门后的庭院里有很多柱子，和浮雕，都是与神和拉三的故事有关的。柱子上墙上全部刻满了，找不着空地儿。俺家那两个队员不停地遭到学生们的围攻有时多达20多人把她俩围在中间，工作人员觉得这样对待国际友人不太好，于是乎照片中这两个拿冲锋枪的黑衣男就从头至尾的帮俺们挡着学生，直到学生全部离开他们才走。他们应该是部队上的，因为给他们小费他们说不能收，问有没有笔，给了他们圆珠笔很高兴。 

 
这面墙上刻的全是字

 
拉二在战车上，注意马的腿很多，有的猜测是形容马跑得快，有的则猜测是形容马很多。。。呵呵。。。

 
立柱上的拉三雕像全部被砸坏了

 
第三道门儿的顶上

 
到处都是学生，一拨一拨的，等他们一走，这地方就寂静无声了。

 
第四道门

 
至此学生们开始撤退了，他们一走此地顿时一片寂静，只剩下俺们仨和另外两三个外国游人。这恐怖分子闹腾得大家日子都不好过啊！

 
最后一个庭院又是一堆倒了的柱子，只剩下最低下一层了

 壁画都是以法老为中心，法老和各路大神们手拉手，共建美好埃及

 
这些柱子要是不倒应该也是很壮观地！

 
此地还有方柱子

 学生们都出门了

 
墙上的两个圆巴巴也不知是谁的名字

 
看够了，撤！此时院儿里已是空无一人了。赶紧回卢克索  弄点吃的，然后去看卢克索  神庙。

小宝一马当先，不知小孩子看这东西有没有意思。反正她也没有特明显的不耐烦。

Travel diary day six 12/16

started off early today at 7 am.

first stop, the valley of the kings. our driver told us that no cameras allowed beyond the entrance. so I left my camera in the car, btw, we had a Toyota minivan all to ourselves. apparently smart phones were allowed. in addition to the general admission ticket that was good for three tombs we also bought one for Tutankhamen's for 100 egp each.

we first went to the Tutankhamen's for it was near the entrance. with all the readings we've done we built up our high expectation for this one. however, the tomb failed to impress us. only one small chamber was on display with the mummy and a coffin in it. maybe this has a lot of significance to some people, but in my opinion this was almost 100 good egp wasted. the only thing I got out of it was that I could say I've been down there.

for the three free tombs we visited thutmosis iii/kv34, rameses iv/kv2, and merenptah/kv8, all were very interesting with long tunnels and many chambers and walls full of reliefs. very impressive. again, a little readings about the tombs will enhance the visiting experience several folds.

at the time we were doing our chores hopping around the tombs I came to realize that the no photo policy applied not only to the insides of the tombs but also to the outside of the whole vok grounds. how did I figure this out? several eager tour guides reminded me at different occasions, when I was taking a shot of the info board outside a tomb, when I took a photo in front of a sign post, etc. I finally got the clarification from one guide that the outside ground was indeed a part of the no photo policy.

that that time, I commented that no inside photo was semi-understandable. my argument against that policy is that people were allowed to use a torch light inside the tombs and I saw people touch the reliefs with their bare hands, and in the mean time they forbids taking photos with no flash lights at all???!!!

the no photo policy for the outside ground is totally beyond me. yes, it's their place they can make any rules they want. but I have to call that policy stupid. the two guides nearby just took my soft voiced comment very personally. and I did make it clear to them that I was calling the policy stupid. I guess they were still taking this as an insult. they obviously reported me to tourist police for when I was up at the end of the tuthmossi iii/kv 34, there were someone yelling at me from down below. I just played dumb and kept walking. finally the two guys, one in plain clothes and one with a rifle caught up with me at the entrance with a very serious facial expression.

I told them what was going on and they asked to see my cell phone. thank goodness i didn't take any inside photos. of course they asked me to delete all the shots taken at vok. and that was it. but, but, but what about the ones in my wife's cell phone? they forgot to ask and i didn't tell. that was very very entertaining for a while.

after the vok, we went to the hutcheputsut temple. it was, again, not very impressive due to our high expectations for this temple with all the hypes. it was some kind of school history day of some sort because we saw loads of grade school and junior high kids. my wife and daughter were surrounded several times by these kids asking for photos taking together. sometimes they two were in the middle of 20 kids. we still couldn't figure out why. there were western and Asian tourists around, not much happening to them.

the next stop was hapu temple. this one was actually very impressive, we liked it very much and spent a lot of time there. again, there were loads of kids around. the photo requests for my two girls were overwhelming, it was so bad that one of the police guards had to walk the most part of the temple ground with us to keep the kids away. in the end all kids left and we almost had the whole thing to ourselves. we offered the guard 20 egp for appreciation, he said he could not take it. he then asked for a pen, so we gave one to him. we ran into several people asking for pens for a gift, does anyone know why?

after the hapu temple, we came back to luxor, had lunch at the mcd by luxor temple. we bought our driver a 60 epg lunch and gave him 60 egp for tips, he was happy today. we then let the driver go home and we stayed to tour around at the luxor temple. just like karnak, luxor temple was great, too.

took a horse cart ride back to our hotel for 5 egp negotiaed after we were done at the temple. the horse cart guy was actually very nice. i gave him 10 egp in the end. other than the no photo "conflict" at the vok this was another wonderful day for us!